Pho Real? Pho Real! in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

Just after the Olympics came and went, I headed south with friend, Lilian to Vietnam and Cambodia. It was mainly an eating vacation that started in Hanoi which (IMHO) has the best street-side chicken pho ever. We stayed at the The Ritz Hotel for two nights I think. Now, before you go on thinking that we were living it up, let me just say that The Ritz is a fantastic, clean two-star (5 Thumbs Up) budget property in the Old Quarter of Hanoi - about a 2 minutes walk from Hoan Kiem Lake - views not included. That said, I would recommend staying near the lake - it's walking distance to the night markets and what-nots just a few blocks north. PS - the big night markets are only on the weekends (Lilian!).

Our room was on the fifth floor of the six-floor walkup. Our very small room was packed full of heavy wooden furniture without much space to walk. After Lilian and I got back to our room on the first night out scouring the night market for sweets and savories, we settled in and passed out. As we were about to leave the next morning for the day's adventure, I couldn't find the room key. So, I tossed the room upside down in a comprehensive search (in all the most improbably places - you know what I mean). For sure, I didn't lose the key because we were able to get back in the room the night before; but where the hell did it go? Apparently, it was dangling safely and securely in the keyhole on the outside of the door. Lilian still doesn't let me forget that one. And I still don't let her forget the fact she booked us in The Ritz.

From Hanoi, we went for a two day/one night "cruise" in Halong Bay. The package tour took us to various caves and included kayaking and a visit to a floating fish farm. Our cabin room had two beds and a hot shower that actually worked. It wasn't luxury, but it was a lot of fun and we got some great jump shots on the roof deck. From Halong Bay we went back to Hanoi for a night of more sweets and savories at the night market. Aside from food, we did do something cultural too - a visit to the Army War Museum in Hanoi. An interesting if not sad and rundown collection of captured American flags, jeeps, jets and munitions all proudly displayed under the banner of Communist Vietnam.

From Hanoi we went to Cambodia where we met up with my journo friend, Emma to explore the Angkor area, but I'll save those stories for another posting. From Cambodia Lilian and I flew to Ho Chi Minh City or as I prefer Saigon. We ate, yes you guessed it - chicken pho again. We went to Pho 2000 at Lilian's insistence because she saw that Bill Clinton ate there on a visit to Saigon some years back. Suffice it to say, it was bad. And I even dressed it up with extra fish sauce, vinegar, chili oil, basil leaves and everything - just not the same and not worth the four to five stars on the travel sites. Bill should just stick to the Golden Arches (IMHO). Here are my pictures from Vietnam if you want to browse. I'm definitely going back to Hanoi to eat. Who's with me?

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